Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Friday, May 1, 2009

Travel through life, travel through Israel

I received a beautiful and enlightening email from a college classmate I hadn’t talk to since 1997. It’s the best thing that happened to me on Facebook. The guy, let’s call him Mike, says that over the years he came to see himself as having serious flaws in his character, he made a point of addressing these issues and he’s become a better person. This is not the average reconnect letter you receive on Facebook. The average letter is from someone who tells you about how many houses he owns, how much he travels, how successful he’s become and how busy he is, except five minutes later you find out he’s just become a fan of emmenthal cheese. Most of the time catching up with friends becomes nothing but an account and collection of individually unimportant, material things. Mike’s letter made me realize how we travel through life asleep to what really is important, spending all our time and energy on the small stuff and what it means to really strive to live with meaningful purpose.

Moreover in his letter Mike apologized to me for all that happened in Israel in 1997. That summer we volunteered on a kibbutz. We were not friends. It’s just that it was my first time in Israel, in the middle of a terror campaign, I wanted a travelmate and Mike was the only guy I knew in my super-conservative slightly anti-semitic university who was crazy enough to accept my invitation.

Our trip was like living in a Problem Child movie, without the fun. A real troublemaker, Mike managed to turn pretty much every ordinary day into a mess. The worst horror story is when Mike went missing in Jerusalem.

We went to Jerusalem for a long week-end. The fist night we walked around the Old City, had a frugal meal in the Arab quarter where our hostel was located, and booked a trip to Masada. We had separate plans the following day but had agreed to meet for dinner. He didn’t show up. The day of the Masada tour I waited in vain at the reception desk. By 2 pm, descending Masada, I started worrying. I pressed the panic button when I got back to the hostel and there was still no sign of Mike. My first thoughts had been:

- How to cope with the first body identification of my life;

- how to inform the parents whom, to make things worst, were told by Mike he was going “somewhere in Spain”.

Around 7 I was at the police station. Somewhat to my amazement I wasn’t asked the usual questions “when is the last time you saw him, what was he wearing, etc…”. Instead the officer wanted to know if he was my boyfriend.

-No, I said.

-So why do you care?

At that point I was about to lose it. That was the epiphany of the old Jewish joke that goes why do Jews always answer a question with a question, why not? Is there anything more frustrating that being denied the possibility to file a missing person report on the ground of not-your-boyfriend-why-do-you-care reasons? After I provided a thoroughly ethical and torah-inspired explanation of why I cared, he shot his second bullet: “do you have a picture of him?”. When I said no, although we took pictures in the last few days but they’re still on film, he announced “without a photo I can’t do anything”. I remember trying to broadcast hate-rays to incinerate him as I stood there staring at him and thinking: “Where the hell do you think I can find an open photography shop in Jerusalem on Shabbat, you a--hole?”. All of a sudden everything became clear: it was Shabbat and that cop had no intention to move his ass for the following 24 hours.

In the Christian quarter, the only place where an open shop could possibly be found on a Friday evening, I had my film developed at Photo Christo (no joke). Back at the police station the cop called my kibbutz. Nobody picked up the phone. It’s Shabbat, he said with a shrug. I hadn’t notice, I replied. I decided not to leave the picture with them and try my luck elsewhere. Like in the movies, I pathetically walked around the bazaar and the narrow streets of the arab quarter showing Mike’s picture to vendors.

I went back to the hostel where everyone had been put on high alert, meaning that every time I stepped in, the reception desk guy and his friends, slouched around a white plastic table sipping Wissotzky tea and playing cards, would turn to me and ask “Found anything?”

I have this dim, blurred memory of a woman lingering around the place, I don’t know in what capacity. A weird, skinny and tall foreign woman in her fifties, totally out of context in a youth hostel, dressed in a long flowery gown. I was ready to swear she was affected by the Jerusalem Syndrome, although I’ve never seen a real case (i.e. the phenomenon whereby a person who seems previously balanced and devoid of any signs of psychopathology becomes psychotic after arriving in Jerusalem, Wikipedia.). In her attempt to help, we embarked on a surreal conversation, starting with her asking in what kibbutz we were working. Maoz Chaim, I said. She had never heard of it. Nevertheless, “It’s a moshav”, she claimed. No, it’s a kibbutz, I corrected her. It’s a moshav, she insisted. It’s a kibbutz, for god’s sake, I live there, I know. And by the way, what impact does the collective organization of labor and decision-making in the State of Israel have on my search? Our kafkaesque exchange went on for a few minutes. It was like playing ping pong in a psych ward. Anyway, it’s a kibbutz.

At the end of Shabbat the volunteers coordinator at Maoz Chaim, a 90 year old German Holocaust survivor who by the end of our stay hated us more than she hated the Nazis, received a phone call that almost gave her a heart attack: “Ms Finkelstein, this is the Jerusalem police. It’s about one of your volunteers.” Mike was at the kibbutz. He had left the morning after our arrival because of sudden intestinal problems (gee… didn’t he read the health warning section of his lonely planet before ordering a GREEN SALAD in the Arab quarter?). He rushed to the bus station early in the morning where he happened to have another attack, left his backpack on a bench and run to the bathroom. Reemerging from the bathroom he found two armed soldiers waiting for him for a little… two hour “Q&A session” about his unattended luggage.

I never told Mike the whole story. When I saw him back at the kibbutz he was laughing his head off over my going to the police, and I wanted to deny him any further satisfaction. As far as I remember I gave him a dirty look (or the finger?) and walked away in rage.

I have to thank Mike for his totally unexpected, touching letter and his life lesson. And because now that the last traces of anger have been buried I can finally laugh my head off too.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

The Deep South

AL invest in jesus (2)

Louisiana, Alabama, Mississippi

April 3-13, 2009

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Back from or to the jungle?

Just came back from Mexico. Eleven days traveling throughout the Yucatan peninsula and all the way down to Chiapas, a couple of which spent in the jungle with swarms of mosquitos who mistook me for a taqueria, plus the last three days spent in Tulum where electricity is limited to nighttime use, from 6 to 10. You get back home and you think what a great, unforgettable vacation, but I’m glad to be back to the comforts of home. Then you turn on the tap in your NY apartment and… have the water come out black? Gee… que viva Mexico!

water


Thursday, October 16, 2008

Monday, September 1, 2008

From Park Slope to the Dragačevo Assembly

Odor-in-Manhattan

Thursday morning, around 6.30 am I opened the window to greet the city and a smell of fried chicken came through. I’m back home.


My summer can be summarized under the title “from Brooklyn to Guča”.



June: we went to a Balkan music concert at Barbes, in Brooklyn. 101_2110 Quality-wise it was like a garage band concert. Yet the concert was fun and the music galvanizing. We found it amazing that this type of music, successfully exported by Kusturica’s movies during the 1990s, has obtained widespread appreciation to the point that a small band from Brooklyn can fill halls on their own. The adrenalin-rushing rhythms conquered each and every soul at at Barbes, although not everyone was familiar with Balkan music. Like the girl standing next to us who, in the middle of the concert, turned to her boyfriend and asked “this is like reggae, right?”. He smiled kindly at her. After 20 minutes she tries again: “Possibly tango?”. Meanwhile, I decided I wanted the real thing: Guča.

August: Guča, Serbia. The 101_2464trumpet festival, also known as the Dragačevo Assembly, is the largest trumpet event in the world with 700,000 visitors making their way to a town of 2,000 people every year.

Notes for file from my Guča:

This isn’t Disneyland, dude. Neither Prague -> 98% of the visitors are from within Serbia or neighboring countries. Watch out, in a few years the event will be completely 'gentrified'. Let’s hope the Lonely Planet guidebook keeps ignoring it,

I didn't know you could play trumpet that way (Miles Davis, a Guča Festival visitor) -> the Roma musicians are the best,

Arteriosclerosis anyone? -> entire pigs and lambs rotating on spits above open fires were pretty much the only item on the menu,

I found the perfect Christmas gift for Carla del Ponte -> street side vendors selling T-shirts emblazoned with images of "Radovan Karadzic and Ratko Mladic national heroes".

Sunday, May 11, 2008

"Tips to help you plan for the worst weather"

bandahonda4 To do in NY when it’s 12 degree outside with no sign of real spring-like weather and showers are forecast for the next 7 days:

Book a ticket to Florida.


Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Emozioni da immigrato abruzzese

 

sagnedececcoTrovato nel supermercato sotto casa. 

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Welcome to America

Indimenticabile la visita dei miei genitori e di mia sorella a NY! Sorella a parte, navigata "connoisseuse" stelle e strisce, e' stato emozionante presentare ai miei genitori questo grande paese, a loro che ci hanno trasmesso il senso di ammirazione e rispetto per i valori di cui l'America si fa portatrice, che ci hanno regalato la grande opportunita' di viverla e di distinguerci con fiera intelligenza da tutti i micheal-mooristi che hanno popolato e spopolato l'Europa negli ultimi anni.

Ecco la mia top five di questi splendidi giorni passati insieme:

1) il momento in cui sul flight tracker ho seguito il loro aereo attraversare il confine canadese per entrare nello spazio statunitense,
2) noi quattro sotto il cielo stellato di Grand Central,
3) quando ci e' caduta la mascella entrando in una classe 4a di una scuola elementare pubblica del West Village vedendo i bambini al lavoro ognuno sul suo Macbook... naturalmente tutto rigorosamente wireless!
4) l'espressione da bambina golosa di mamma davanti al burro d'arachidi,
5) il record giappo-fotografico dei 950 scatti di papa'!

Monday, December 3, 2007

Manhattan jungle


Surviving the horrors of apartment hunting in NYC is like staying alive and mentally sane in post-war Baghdad. As our apartment-hunting is coming to an end, here is my jungle book of observations, anecdotes and lessons learned about the NYC rental market.

Building: what the building looks like, not the apartment itself, is what renters in NYC really care about. This is proved by the fact that the majority of rental ads give a full description of the building before disclosing any information about the flat. So one day a broker (who?) called me in response to an email (which one out of the 100 I sent?) I sent him the day before when I was searching through tons of web listings: “Hi, this is Robert. I’m calling you in response to your email. It’s about the apartment in the building with a pool”. Hmmm… Can I buy a vowel??

Listings: Although the transition from paper to reality leaves you with a maddeningly frustrating bunch of inaccurate information to stomach, I have to admit that property descriptions provided by brokers can be very creative, to use an euphemism. The best I saw was: “the apartment features XYZ… and a great foyer where you can greet your guests.” Of course everyone can see the immense added value of a “great foyer” and I had wild dreams about welcoming my guests: “hi, thanks for coming, please don’t walk straight into the living room, let’s have some fun in my great foyer first”.

Stingy landlords: in my opinion a stingy landlord is to be avoided like the bubonic plague. They can be found anywhere in the world, but here for the first time I heard a landlord asking -while we were negotiating the lease- if she and her husband could use the apartment for three weeks a year because they come from Colorado and hotel accommodation in Manhattan tend to be very expensive. Jaw dropping, restraining the urge to curse loudly, we diplomatically commented: “We have to admit that it is quite an unusual request, Madam” although my gut reaction was: “And would you like fries with that?”.

Guarantor: holding a diplomatic visa like we do only exacerbates the nightmare. Many landlords in NY do not accept diplomats. It’s not unusual to read in a listing “no dogs, no diplomats”, how flattering! Landlords that do accept diplomats sometimes ask for a guarantor, a person who is legally obligated to pay the rent in case the tenant is unable to. Whereas in Europe a guarantor can be anyone with a good credit history, in NY we ended up being asked for a guarantor who earns 87 times the monthly rent, adding up to the magic figure of half a million USD. When we made the calculation, my husband and I looked at each other in amazement: “Did you happen to hear from your buddy Bill Gates lately?” “Nope” “Any chance mayor Bloomberg would lend a helping hand?” “Not sure” “All right, NEXT!”

Brokers: this issue would deserve its own jungle book. The majority of brokers are not just better than used car salesmen. I won’t go into too much detail, hoping that my previous post gives a sense of the scale of the problem. However there are also nice and honest people. My favourite broker is L., originally from Puerto Rico, born in Queens and living in Long Island… I swear this man was meant to be a comedian instead! To end on a positive note, my best memories about my apartment hunting is driving around town with him mumbling his mantra “This city is shit, man! This city is filthy! With that money, you could rent a villa in Long Island and hire a full time chauffer to drive you to the city any f&#*ing time you want!”

And whoever thought apartment hunting was fun is in my humble opinion truly insane...